The huge, opaque-colored 1983 Unico Reserva still tastes like a barrel sample. It is fat and grapy, with massive flavor concentration, an expansive, sweet, jammy, blackcurrant fruitiness, spicy oak, and a long, robust, spicy finish. My rating is slightly lower than it was when I tasted this wine last year, but there is no doubting the wine's awesome levels of extract. Still tasting extremely undeveloped and unevolved, it requires a decade more of cellaring, although its sweetness and great ripeness of fruit make it accessible now.
Wine Advocate # 97 - Feb 1995